The Brooklyn food mantra is local, but the latest and greatest in Williamsburg shows another angle on the culinary culture of the borough: imports.
Hailing from San Francisco, brothers Leo and Oliver Kremer felt the lack of Bay Area-style taquerias in New York and set out to fill the void with Dos Toros.
Their latest location is a small storefront on Bedford Ave, in Williamsbug, offering a small but well thought-out selection of Mexican classics, not the least of which is a carne asada quesadilla ($7.12) that will change the way you think of the quesadilla.
Instead of dry and dripping with a cheap cheese filling, this quesadilla focuses on the quality and flavor of each ingredient, served with pleasing presentation.
The best part of it all is a flour tortilla from Tortilleria Nixtamal in Queens, griddled in corn oil. Slightly charred, the smoky aroma of the tortilla lets you know that this is not just any other tortilla even before you take your first bite. When you do, you’ll taste tender, juicy steak and a lively combination of Monterey Jack cheese, salsa, sour cream, hot sauce, and guacamole (the guacamole is optional, but at $0.92, it’s a steal). Each component speaks for itself, fresh and well seasoned, and supersedes expectations for a taco joint.
Everything at Dos Toros fits nicely into the Brooklyn food ethos: many products are locally sourced, there are reclaimed wood countertops, biodegradable utensils, and it offers a good price point for real value. But when it comes to Mexican food with a San Franciscan accent, the quesadilla at Dos Toros proves the Bay Area has much to offer to the Brooklyn scene.
Dos Toros [189 Bedford Ave. between N. Sixth and N. Seventh streets, (212) 677–7300, www.dostoros.com].Will Levitt is a Brooklyn-based food writer. Follow him on Twitter @UnderEggWill