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Finally, a restaurant in the old Monte’s space

for The Brooklyn Paper
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The King is dead, long live the King.

Since Monte’s Venetian Room closed in 2008 after an unprecedented 102-year run, faithfuls of the historic Carroll Street eatery have held on to the dream that it might, someday, reopen.

Those hopes went down the drain after recent sightings of a work permit and liquor license application in the windows, issued for the restaurant Dominick’s of Carroll Street.

But there’s a silver lining: a new restaurant will be taking over the space between Third Avenue and Nevins Street.

Of course, only time will tell if the newcomer stands a chance at filling Monte’s sizable shoes, or if it ends up sleeping with the fishes.

Owned since 1906 by the Montemarano family, Monte’s became known more for its exploits than its food over the years. Once a Prohibition-era speakeasy and then notorious Rat Pack hangout, Monte’s heaping platters of veal saltimbocca and linguine with clam sauce made few concessions to new palates.

And yet, until its closing, visitors still clamored at the chance to sit at one of Monte’s long red banquets, under a massive mural of Venice, at the foot of the Gowanus, and dream of the good old days.

Updated 1:10 am, March 2, 2011
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