Stomachs dropped all over Brooklyn when Jason Stevens, owner of reBar on Front Street in DUMBO, revealed earlier this year that he had hired a new chef at his gorgeous, cloister-like second-floor aerie.
No knock on maestro Jeremy Leech, but reBar’s prior chef, Lori D’Agostino, was the woman who turned Stevens’s excellent craft-beer-and-cocktail bar into a true gastropub. Her mussels, after all, was the reason that we created our “The Best Thing We Ate This Week” column — that’s how good they were. And her hanger steak was another instant classic.
Under Leech’s leadership, the menu has been reconfigured, but it’s still pocked with greatness: The truffle oil polenta with a sunny-side-up egg and pine nuts ($6) is as rich as an appetizer can be without fully destroying your appetite. The only way to improve upon this dish is to double the size, make it an entree and call it a night.
We also enjoyed an appetizer of baby artichokes sauteed with crispy chunks of bacon ($7).
Standout entrees include a homemade — and surprisingly light — boar sausage ($21) and the pulled pork sandwich ($12), a cloud of cumin-specked, slow-cooked pork.
And thanks to General Manager Luke Wheeler’s continued excellence with the booze, reBar remains a true triple threat: great drinks, great food and a great room.
reBar [147 Front St. between Pearl and Jay streets in DUMBO, (718) 766-9110]