A French onion soup — without the soup

Again, the soupless French Onion Soup at The Counting Room, a new wine bar in Williamsburg
for The Brooklyn Paper
Share on TwitterTweet
Share on Facebook

Don’t miss our updates:

The Counting Room may bill itself as a wine bar, but don’t be fooled: beneath that colossal wine list, the new Williamsburg dram shop hides an impressively original take on French Onion soup.

The menu here may be petite — a scant four sandwiches and five “bites” accompany the prerequisite meat and cheese boards — but you should consider this a favor: you’ll want to try everything.

If you do choose just one item though, it should be Chef Robert Crossen’s Knife and Fork French Onion Soup ($10), an inventive twist on the French classic that’s more akin to a melt-in-your-mouth open-faced sandwich, served dry, with a small carafe of broth to be poured on top.

The bread is a thick, crusty slice of French bread, smothered in Parmesan and Swiss cheeses, transformed into a delectably oozy mess when drenched in the sumptuous — albeit vegetarian — broth.

Of course, it also helps that the Counting Room is the perfect place to spend a lazy, warm weekend afternoon. With the windows open and the breeze blowing in, it’s ideal; equally beautiful in the candlelit evening.

The truffled grilled cheese ($12), on pressed French bread with Fontina, is almost equally satisfying comfort food.

We did take issue with one menu item: the Caesar “bites,” which arrived in the form of still wet romaine leaves with a smattering of croutons.

But if you skip that one dud, there is ample satisfaction to be had. Of course, with enough wine most things are.

The Counting Room [44 Berry St. at North 11th St. in Williamsburg, (718) 599-1860].

Updated 5:18 pm, July 9, 2018
Today’s news:
Share on TwitterTweet
Share on Facebook

Don’t miss our updates:

Reasonable discourse

Comments closed.

First name
Last name
Your neighborhood
Email address
Daytime phone

Your letter must be signed and include all of the information requested above. (Only your name and neighborhood are published with the letter.) Letters should be as brief as possible; while they may discuss any topic of interest to our readers, priority will be given to letters that relate to stories covered by The Brooklyn Paper.

Letters will be edited at the sole discretion of the editor, may be published in whole or part in any media, and upon publication become the property of The Brooklyn Paper. The earlier in the week you send your letter, the better.

Keep it local!

Stay in touch with your community. Subscribe to our free newsletter: