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No ‘truffle’ eating this whole pie

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In a recent episode of “30 Rock,” the network executive played by Alec Baldwin dreams of eating the “Lovers’ Delight” at Plunder, the aptly named restaurant where dessert consists of “Tahitian-vanilla-bean ice cream in a pool of cognac, drizzled in the world’s most expensive chocolate — Amadei Bociliana — covered with shaved white, black, and clear truffles, and topped with edible 25-carat gold leaf.”

That’s how we felt eating the “tartufata” at Toby’s Public House this week.

No, it’s not a dessert, but this black truffle, prosciutto, mozzarella and mushroom pizza is what Baldwin’s fictional Jack Donaghy might seek if he was looking for a main course.

The tartufata is no fictional exercise in excess, but the real thing: the truffles, crimini mushrooms and prosciutto combine for a deep, earthen flavor, while the thick, creamy fresh mozzarella serves a molten cloud that caresses all that salty, musky goodness in a pillow of milk.

The $18 pricetag may seem like a punchline of a “30 Rock” joke, but you’d gladly pay twice that for this heavenly pie.

Besides, you’ll save a fortune on beer; Toby’s serves its own $3 ale that’s as delicious as it is cheap.

Toby’s Public House [686 Sixth Ave. at 21st Street in Greenwood Heights, (718) 788-1186.

Updated 4:28 pm, July 9, 2009
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