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Unless you have an unfortunate shellfish allergy, you’ll want to put down this paper (after reading this, of course) and immediately head to Williamsburg. Chef Dino Castri, who has recently taken over the kitchen at PT Restaurant, is serving sea urchins and scallops in a light, creamy citrus sauce. Oh, the joys of spring!

What makes eating something that seasonally perfect even more delightful is the room’s cozy ambience; PT Restaurant, which opened in August, is housed on the lower level of a brownstone.

The candlelit, subterranean space is outfitted with brick walls, long, wooden, communal tables with stools filling in for chairs and an unexpected postal theme (PT is named for the Italian postal service) that includes mail-related antiques circa 1910. It’s a comforting environment to hunker down with a big bowl of pasta or a hefty steak — spring brings grass-fed filet mignon with polenta and porcini mushrooms. Behind the restaurant there’s a garden (remember flowers?) and in front of the eatery are sidewalk tables.

Picture a warm summer night, the breeze blowing around your bare ankles while you sip wine and share a slice of ricotta cheesecake flavored with orange blossom water with someone you like. (Claudio Coronas, who co-partners the restaurant with Mariano Sansone, also owns D.O.C. wine bar nearby, so the all-Italian wine list is no afterthought.) A night like that makes a ride on the L train worth the schlep.

PT Restaurant (331 Bedford Ave., between South Second and South Third Streets in Williamsburg) accepts cash only. Entrees: $9–$24. The restaurant serves dinner daily. Subway: L to Bedford Street. For information, call (718) 388-7438.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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