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It’s better not to get too attached to a Smith Street restaurant as they come and go quickly. So broken-hearted fans of the short-lived Taku take heart. The restaurant’s owner and chef, Adam Shepherd, plans on re-establishing the eatery early next year in lower Manhattan.

But Brooklyn hasn’t lost the cook yet. On Oct. 7, Shepherd opened Lunetta in Taku’s former space.

Lunetta (which means "little moon") said "arrivederci" to the East and welcomed in the North - Northern Italian, to be exact - with an affordable, small-plate menu.

"Lunetta walks the line between a wine bar and a restaurant," says Shepherd. At the moment, there are 24 Italian varieties available by the glass and carafe. The dishes, which Shepherd says, "are great for sharing," include fried artichokes (pictured) with lemon and herbs; pumpkin ravioli with smoked bacon and mushrooms; and several vegetarian side dishes like cauliflower "bagna cauda" (garlic and anchovy sauce).

"It was sad to rip down the cherry blossom wallpaper," says Shepherd of the previous Asian-inspired decor. The current "clubby" feeling is manufactured from tufted red leather banquettes that replaced the previous wooden tables, and the walls are now painted pale gold. Come summer, there is a 30-seat garden in the back.

Lunetta (116 Smith St. between Dean and Pacific streets in Boreum Hill) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Dishes: $3-$16. The restaurant serves dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Mondays. Subway: F or G to Bergen Street. For more information, call (718) 488-6269.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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