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If the name doesn’t give this Williamsburg canteen away, then let me explain.

The "it" dish at Taco Chulo is - you guessed it! - tacos. Prepared by two Angelica Kitchen expats, Dija Amer and Greta Dana, the crisp shells are housemade and filled with mostly organic ingredients that include Niman Ranch pork.

Open since August, Taco Chulo - loosely translated - means "taco pimp." You’ll understand why Amer and Dana, who also own the place, chose the name when you peruse their menu. Order the "Surf y Turf," a shrimp, potato, beans, baby cactus, salsa and crema taco or burrito, and you’re invited to "pimp it up" with extras like sliced jalapeño peppers and "rajas" (roasted peppers and onions).

Pimping can relate to the decor, too. This is Williamsburg after all, home of the hipster, so forget paneled rooms hung with sombreros - no matter how ironic that setting may be.

Here, one side of the room sports a curving, deep red wall; the ceiling is vivid sky blue and the bar is zinc. There’s an ample supply of Mexican bottled and draught beers, Spanish wines, and how could any self-respecting place in this locale not have a signature cocktail? Taco Chulo’s "Chihuahua," a lethal blend of tequila, grapefruit and lime juices served in a salt-rimmed glass, is the house drink.

Taco Chulo (318 Grand St. between Havemeyer Street and Marcy Avenue in Williamsburg) accepts MasterCard and Visa. Tacos and burritos: $4.50 to $12; large plates and combos: $9-$14.50. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. Weekend brunch is served, from 11 am to 5 pm. Delivery is available to surrounding neighborhoods. For more information, call (718) 302-2485.

Updated 5:16 pm, September 19, 2017
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