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What’s the story with the term "gastropub?" I’ve seen it in newspapers twice in two weeks. It sounds like the name of the condition you’re in the day after a long night of bar cruising.

The definition, if you’re not hip to the latest culinary slang, is a bar or pub with good food.

The latest gastropub is Spike Hill, which opened in Williamsburg in September. According to the pub’s chef, Brett Ackerman (pictured), Spike Hill is the name of the owners’ family property in Ireland; proprietors Tom Kenney and Tom Schmitz are cousins. Meanwhile, "gastropub," explains Ackerman, "originates in London, when pub owners began to employ chefs who could do more than fry fish and chips."

So can Ackerman, whose most recent stint was at Williamsburg’s Diner. His fryer is at work here, dishing out big portions of that Brit delicacy, but he’s also serving up burgers, a grilled steak, chicken stew and Irish fry-up - blood sausage, bacon and baked beans topped with poached eggs. More refined dishes include a sea bass with a panko breadcrumb crust.

To sweeten the evening, Ackerman offers a warm chocolate brownie with chocolate whipped cream and a caramelized apple cobbler.

And, says Ackerman, "In addition to a great beer selection, we have the best single malt Scotch and Irish whiskey around.

Spike Hill (184 Bedford Ave. at North Seventh Street) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $11-$17. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays, from 11 am to 5 pm. For information, call (718) 218-9737.

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