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Finding a decent Thai restaurant in the neighborhoods surrounding Mai, the new Southeast Asian eatery that borders Fort Greene and Park Slope, is as simple as scoring a bowl of French onion soup in Park Slope. Satisfying a craving for Indonesian cuisine or the complex flavors of Malaysia is another story. That is, until Mai opened on Atlantic Avenue in September.

Step beneath Mai’s bright yellow awning, you’ll find chef Daniel Wu (pictured), who co-owned Jefferson and the Cafe Asean in Manhattan, spinning out a spirited menu that traverses Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia.

Sitting in the modern, brick walled space atop wooden banquettes strewn with brightly colored pillows, diners can begin a meal by dipping pan-seared scallop dumplings into soy, ginger and lime sauce. Follow the appetizer with an entree of whole grilled sea bass wrapped in a banana leaf and served with a spicy chili and fish sauce. If poultry is their pleasure, Wu sautes half a duck with shiitake mushrooms and splashes it with a light, ginger-spiked wine sauce.

In the summer, a garden with a fountain makes an ideal spot to sip sake and enjoy the restaurant’s refreshing coconut and lime custard.

Mai (497 Atlantic Ave. between Third Avenue and Nevins Street in Boerum Hill) accepts cash only. Entrees: $9-$15.50. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner every day. For reservations, call (718) 797-3880.

- Tina Barry
Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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