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Sure you can get seafood on Smith Street. But what about caviar? At Aqua, a seafood restaurant that opened in April, Smith Street denizens can have theirs - in this case tobiko caviar - four ways: with ginger, with wasabi, infused with tea and herbs, or given a bite with hot pepper.

The lady of the house, chef Belinda Ber (formerly of Bice in Manhattan), describes the mostly fish menu as "Mediterranean with a multi-national bent."

To that end, there’s a Corsican-style bouillabaisse made with shellfish - not the usual fish and shellfish melange - that Ber says, "is more assertive than the usual French bouillabai­sse."

Translation: A lot more garlic.

Coconut pot de creme, hazelnut biscotti with raspberry espresso sauce, and white chocolate mousse are among the luscious desserts.

OK, so Aqua’s patrons have a view of Smith Street, not waves crashing against the shore, and whatever breezes blow in come from the kitchen. It’s as close as you’ll come to seaside dining until you hit the shore this summer.

Aqua (174 Smith St. between Warren and Wyckoff streets in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express, Visa and MasterCard. Entrees: $17-$24.50. The restaurant serves dinner Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays. For reservations, call (718) 643-1589.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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