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Sometimes all I want is a burger.

Or a nice grilled piece of salmon on mashed potatoes (left). Nothing with Asian influences, or French, or a novel take on Austrian cooking.

With bistros in the area proliferating like bunnies on Easter Sunday, simple American cooking can be hard to find. In June, partners Scott Fredrick and Andrew Benedict opened City Lighting Restaurant & Bar in that funky triangular space on Flatbush Avenue that you’ve driven past 10,000 times that was once a lighting store. (See the connection? Lighting store - City Lighting?) It’s now an attractive dining room with a 30-foot bar and retro lighting circa 1960-’70.

But never mind that.

City Lighting has crab cakes and grilled fish, good burgers and salads. If you’re hankering for a steak, or a big bowl of garlicky mussels, or simple pastas, they’ve got those, too.

There’s even strawberry shortcake. It’s spring. Treat yourself to a slice.

City Lighting Restaurant & Bar (307 Flatbush Ave. at Prospect Place in Prospect Heights) accepts Visa and MasterCard. Entrees: $9-$16. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Brunch is served 11 am-4 pm on Saturday and Sunday. For information, call (718) 230-3321.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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