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The Brooklyn Paper
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Star of India, on Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue, may look like other traditional, Indian restaurants in Brooklyn - mirrors, paneling and linen-covered tables - but the food is a star or two above average.

The restaurant, which opened a year ago, is a family affair. Miah Tazu, who has 21 years of experience cooking in Manhattan and India, is the chef, while his sons Khalil and Mizmijan work the dining room, stopping to recommend dishes and tell stories.

Tazu dishes out crisp samosas and tandoori grilled meats (at left), curries and kormas (a spicy, braised stew of lamb or chicken and onions). The ingredients Tazu employs are fresh. The chicken tikka masala is moist and smoky. Breads are baked in-house, and the curries are complex.

There’s even a decent house Shiraz with enough oomph to partner the dishes.

What can kids eat? The "Gulab Jaman" dessert, a deep-fried puff in a rich, cardamom-flavored syrup, is a dead ringer for a gussied up Krispy Kreme doughnut. They’ll love it.

Star of India (232 Fifth Ave. between President and Carroll streets) accepts Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diner’s Club and Discover. Entrees: $8.25-$15. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Delivery is available. For more information, call (718) 638-0555 or 638-5533.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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