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Four-star, wunderkind chef Thomas Ferlesch (pictured), most recently of Cafe des Artistes and before that Vienna ’79, has opened his first restaurant, Thomas Beisl, across Lafayette Avenue from the Brooklyn Academy of Music.

"In Vienna," says Ferlesch, "bistros serve the young and the old, intellectuals and students, plumbers, doctors, artists, everyone. It makes a wonderful atmosphere." It is just that "come one, come all" spirit that Ferlesch hopes his Thomas Beisl (beisl means bistro) will be to the Fort Greene neighborhood.

Ferlesch did most of the renovation himself, stripping and staining antique chairs that he picked up on Atlantic Avenue. The lighting is moody and romantic with amber-tinted sconces and candles on the tables.

Thomas Beisl’s location - there’s BAM of course, Mark Morris’ dance studio is up the street, and Urban Glass, a glass-blowing studio, is a few blocks away - all but ensures an art-loving crowd. Plan on seeing black-clad diners eating velvety, eggplant terrine topped with goat cheese or a seafood salad with scallions, parsley and jalapenos. Wiener schnitzel with cucumber salad and parsley potatoes, and beef goulash made with braised beef cheeks and served with spaetzle, are among the entrees.

No one skips dessert in a Viennese restaurant. (What do you think inspired the Viennese dessert table at all those Bar Mitzvahs?) There’s palatschinken, crepes stuffed with apricot jam or chocolate hazelnut cream, and a linzertorte. Ask for the torte mit schlag - that’s with whipped cream.

Thomas Beisl (25 Lafayette Ave. between Ashland Place and St. Felix Street) accepts American Express. Entrees: $13-$16. The restaurant is open daily, from noon to midnight, and serves brunch Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 am to 4 pm. For reservations, call (718) 222-5800.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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