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"Smith Street doesn’t need another bistro," said Steven Hall, one of the owners of the innocuously named That Bar, which opened on Friday, May 10. Who could disagree?

What Hall, with partners Sam Firer and Joe Drogo, has offered instead, is a late-hours bar serving brunch, and nothing but brunch. "Why wait till Sunday?" is their motto. The bar, until recently Victory Kitchen, has a casual, modern aesthetic: lots of silver and white with shelving behind sliding glass panels. Until all the booze is delivered, Rice Krispies boxes line the shelves.

The menu features more than bacon and eggs. Tomato basil soup is served "passionate" or "chilly" with a grilled cheese sandwich. There’s "That Club" with layers of lobster, bacon, lettuce and tomato and an herb mayonnaise; "his and her" salads - greens with skirt steak for (you guessed it) him, and for her, the greens are topped with grilled chicken.

"Eggies" (that’s how it’s written on the menu) come scrambled, Benedict or you can order a lobster hash with your poached "eggies." All egg dishes come with waffle fries.

Look forward to watching "Queer as Folk" Sunday evenings on the bar’s big TV screen, and while you’re at it, you can down a Lavender Lust (vanilla martini with grape juice), a Golden Shower (a gold margarita) or a Double Orgasm. We should all be so lucky.

That Bar (116 Smith St. between Pacific and Dean Streets) will be open seven nights a week, from 5 pm until 2 am. Beginning in early June, the bar will be serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday, from 11 am to 4 pm. For more information, call (718) 260-8900.

Updated 4:00 pm, November 10, 2010
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